Capa2.indd

140 R E V I S T A D A E S P M – SETEMBRO / OUTUBRO DE 2008 Abs tracts ENGLISH FASHION AND LIFESTYLES L IVIA B ARBOSA pAgE 16 The appearance of “fashion” as such is a phenomenon of modernity, when the search for the new and different substituted for the (more comfortable) maintenance of the same and old. A “lifestyle” is the term to designate distinct esthetic standards and patterns, which may be adopted by individuals or groups. Therefore, fashion and lifestyles are complementary things, and should go together as far as the analysis and discussion of the consumer society is concerned. Both concepts are placed by the author within the context of contemporary society, which is characterized by freedom of choice and by social mobility – and where life patterns and values are no longer immovable and determined by class and status. A sociological approach of fashion, interacting with lifestyles, suggests a complex social mechanism, which enhances both the senses of belonging and of individuality - insofar as lifestyles become dissociated of rigid class structures. FROM THE “TEMPLES” OF FASHION TO FASHION WEEK N ELSON V ARÓN C ADENA pAgE 24 The evolution of fashion marketing, in Brazil goes together with that of retailing – from the end of the 19th Century, when the best stores were influenced by the grands magasins of Paris. This article is a look at the path covered by fashion advertising and marketing, from that time on; showing the appearance of the first merchandise catalogs, going through the industrial boom after World War II and its consequences in terms of new materials, shows, fairs and spectacular events. Some items are singled out: the elegant head and foot wear of the beginning of the 20th Century, the nylon thread of the 50s and 60s; Levi’s jeans; Valisère bras; Calvin Klein shorts and Havaiana sandals. As a grand finale: the giant malls and shopping centers of the turn of the centuries... FASHION: YOU THOUGHT IT HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH YOU? C ECÍLIA M ATTOSO pAgE 32 Even people who think that fashion is far and away from their everyday lives are influenced by it. Is identity shaped by fashion? Fashion has become an important way of reproducing culture and establishing social relationships, and may play, for some, a supporting role in defining individuality. Fashion also helps to express self-image and lifestyle. As the meaning of fashion is far from precise, there is ample space for interpretations – a definite plus in a world of multiple, and multiplying, meanings. A fashion that is valued by one reference group – and its opinion leaders – may signify a passport to a sought-after identity. It follows, then, that even people who think that fashion has nothing to do with them, may be affected by it. DE LUXE TERRITORIES: FENCES AND BRIDGES OF FASHION V ALÉRIA B RANDINI pAgE 38 The article is a socio-anthropologic approach about the universe of symbolic consumption of luxury items, and also has the objective of shedding some light on the function of this type of consumption as a representation of the confrontations of social classes as well as the main motivations of consumption in Brazil. Luxury is seen as an exponential representation of fashion and lifestyles in Brazil, and is analyzed both as a fence – a symbolic element of class exclusion toward the economically less-privileged, a source of cultural and social conflicts – but also as a bridge – from where, through the act of buying a luxury item, a consumer may ascend in the social ladder to the top, where basic needs are replaced by hedonism and ostentation. THE INDUSTRY OF LUXURY FASHION, CREATIVE ECONOMY AND THE CITY J OÃO L UIZ DE F IGUEIREDO S ILVA pAgE 56 The article discusses, first, two important factors to determine the demand for luxury products in the fashion industry: the taste and symbol contained in each one. Then, it admits the existence of a growing market for this segment, recognizing its potential for the generation of jobs and income, and reviewing the patterns of production, whereby firms and workers seek the creative and innovative environment of big cities. It is recognized that the cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo – specially the latter – concentrate the bulk of the luxury fashion industry in the country; and proposed that the implementation of public policies geared to develop these two areas – creativity and innovation – will be beneficial to both cities. “PUBLiEDITORIAL” W ASHINGTON O LIVETTO pAgE 62 Fashion and advertising complement each other in a significant way. Whereas fashion is avant-garde and does not have to be self evident, advertising strives to be immediately understood, even if it wants to be fashionable... Fashion advertising, therefore, is a rather